STEAK AND CHIPS

Steak and chips is the easiest thing in the world to cook. Unfortunately, it is also the easiest thing in the world to cook badly. Dry, tough, tasteless or "funny-flavoured" steak is really inexcusable but, criminally common place. But before we get into how to cook your steak lets talk about the steak itself, that way we can eliminate potential problems.

I wouldn't advise anyone to buy steak from the supermarket. Generally, they buy bulk from the cheapest option which forces their suppliers to cut corners and results in under hung-and under-aged tasteless meat. Then they starve it of oxygen in vac-pax and perform somekind of secret ritual so your steak, no matter how briefly you cook it, is always well done. This pretty much guarantees ALL worse case scenarios.

Instead, make friends with your local butcher. His livelihood depends upon his repuation and it is in his best interests to follow the development of the meat he will be selling at every stage. He will be on first name terms with his supplier and know how the beast was reared, what it was fed on, how old it was, and will insist on a humane slaughter. Having made so much effort so far you can bet your bottom that he is going to ensure it is hung, stored and aged correctly so all you have to worry about is what cut you want.

As a general rule of thumb stick to four cuts for your grilled steak: fillet, sirloin, rib eye and rump - in that order depending on your budget. But what breed of cow is the best?

Devon Ruby Red is my favourite breed for beef. It tastes amazing and thankfully it hasn't yet been subjected to the outrageous price-hikes of Angus which commands extortionate fees simply because of its name, regardless of how badly it has been reared, butchered or aged. Because "Rubies" are smaller beasts they work out quite economical too as, pound for pound, you will get more cuts of the required minimum thickness than you would from something the size of a Brontosaurus.

The ingredients for a great steak are minimal. A steak, salt and pepper and that is it. A cooking guide for various cuts follows but the ceremony for cooking all of them is the same.

1. Bring your steak to room temperature for 30 minutes and open your windows because to cook a steak you need a LOT of heat.

2. Place a heavy flat pan over a high heat until it is sizzling hot.

3. Season your steak on all sides with salt and pepper to taste.

4. Stand your steak up in the pan on its fat and let it sizzle for a minute*. This will "render" some of the beef fat into an oil. Basically you are going to be cooking the steak in its own fat which is all good for flavour. Using tongs, turn the steak onto its opposite end and cook for 30 seconds then do the same to the other two ends.

5. Turn the steak onto one of its face (cut) sides and leave it. Don't touch it, don't prod it, don't poke it. Just leave it for as long as the cooking guide recommends for the 1st side. Then gently turn it over and do exactly the same for the 2nd side.

It is utterly important that you don't faff with your steak during cooking and for gods sake don't stab or poke it at any point. This will result in leakage of the juices and a dry steak. And ALWAYS place your steak onto a plate and leave it in a warm place to relax for at least the same ammount of time as you cooked it. The resting is as important as the cooking.


The ammount of possible accompaniments is mind boggling: Watercress salad, saute potatoes, steamed green beans, bearnaise sauce, etc... etc... But I like mine simply with Chips.

* As beef fillet doesn't have any fat you'll have to add a splash of vegetable oil.